Yo-Yo Wine Bottle Bag

Wine bottle bags make a great gift idea, this vintage style Yo-Yo design is a great project to accomplish while you are watching TV. This post contains affiliate links.

Yo-yo Wine Bottle Bag

Yo-Yo Wine Bottle Bag

I’ve been working late at night lately. It’s very hot outside and I don’t have a ton of energy for accomplishing much during the day. The basement is my favorite retreat, along with my sewing workshop. Needless to say, I have been very productive in that nice cool environment. It’s not hard to get started on a project and never want to leave that room.

This little Yo-Yo bag is fun to make, although it requires a bit of hand sewing. The Yo-yo’s are made from 5″ quilt squares and a Yo-Yo maker, although it would be just as easy to make them without the Yo-Yo making device. I have included a FREE DOWNLOADABLE Pattern for this project!


Oh, by the way I also get my wine FREE,


For this wine bag design, you will need 16 yo-yo’s of various colors. I used 8 contrasting yo-yos that matched the background fabric and 8 colored ones.

My first inclination was to make the yo-yo’s out of denim, however, after reading the yo-yo maker directions, they warned against using denim. It is too heavy and will not gather well. I found this pretty blue cotton chambray at the fabric store instead, and after working with it, I decided it was a far better choice. The fabrics for this project need to be thinner cottons, such as quilting cotton, or fabric with a soft, drapey hand.


Supplies Needed:

1 package colored cotton 5″ quilt squares in various colors

1 Yo-Yo maker (buy one here with my affiliate link), or use a (circular cardboard pattern with 5″ diameter)

1/2 yard blue cotton chambray fabric

1/4 yard heavy weight interfacing (for the bag handle)

Needle and thread


  1. Make yo-yos by fitting the cotton square into the yo-yo maker (wrong side up). Stitch around edge with large, loose stitches, using the punched holes in the plastic as a guideline. Remove plastic insert (do not cut thread), pull up threads to gather fabric into the round yo-yo shape, tucking raw edges of fabric into the center of the yo-yo. Secure with the needle and thread by stitching a couple of anchor stitches in the center of the yo-yo. Create 16 yo-yos of various colors, or 8 chambray and 8 colored yo-yos.  (If you do not have a yo-yo maker, use the cardboard pattern to cut out 5″ circles. Fold over edge 1/4″ and loosely stitch a hem on the wrong side of fabric. Follow directions above for completing the yo-yo.
  2. Cut a blue chambray fabric piece 8″ x 12″. Iron on a 1 1/2″ piece of fusible interfacing to top edge of wrong side of fabric.
  3. Stitch 1/4″ rolled hem on top edge of fabric.
  4. Arrange yo-yos in rows of 4 across and 4 down on top of the fabric rectangle. Pin yo-yo’s in place, making sure you leave 1/2″ seam allowance on side edges, and 2″ seam allowance at bottom of rectangle.
  5. Tack yo-yo edges in place two at a time by using the side to side stitch on your machine buttonholer. Place yo-yo’s under the presser foot, lower the foot, stitch three or four times to anchor them in place. Repeat until all edges are tacked at top, side and bottom of yo-yos. If you do this two at a time, it doesn’t take long to accomplish.
  6. Fold down turned hem 1″ at top, catching top of yo-yos under the edge. Pin in place and  stitch.
  7. Turn rectangle in half, with right sides together matching top, bottom, and raw edges. Stitch 1/2″ seam allowance along side and bottom. Turn bag right side out. Press lightly.
  8. Make bag handle by cutting 3″ wide strip of chambray fabric, 8″ long. Iron on 1″ wide piece of interfacing in center. Fold in thirds, zigzag top stitch over raw edge down the length of the handle. Attach to top of bag with single needle stitch.

Yo-yo Wine Bag, FREE DOWNLOADABLE PATTERN|Designers Sweet Spot|www.designerssweetspot.com

Sewing Tips:

I didn’t sew the handle as per the directions above on my bag. When started to make a casing with the interfacing inside,  it was very cumbersome to work with. So, I changed the sewing directions. Also, the zig zag stitch will add more stability to the bag handle, as the weight of the wine bottle is rather heavy.

You don’t need to finish the inside seams of the bag, but you could if you choose.

Yo-yo Wine Bottle Bag

I would love to see your Yo-Yo creations! Tag me on social media with this hashtag:


Yo-Yo Wine Bag with Free Downloadable Pattern| Designers Sweet Spot|www.desingerssweetspot.com

Here are some more fun sewing projects:

How to Make a Dresden Plate Pillow

Spring Table Runner

Tea Towels with Appliqué

How to Sew a Satin Robe

Sewing a Fleece Robe






How to Make a Dresden Plate Pillow

This post was sponsored by Nancy’s Notions. I was compensated in some way for writing this post. Any opinions given are completely my own. For a complete list of disclosure rules see the disclosures page.

How to Make a Dresden Plate Pillow|Designers Sweet Spot|www.designerssweetspot.com

I have admired this Dresden Plate design for quite some time. My friend and I first spotted it at the huge Quilt Expo a couple of years ago. The design template and directions are an easy to use kit from Nancy’s Notions. I was very excited to have a chance to work with Nancy’s Notions on this project, since they are located in my home town here in Wisconsin.

The Dresden Plate kit comes with a plastic template and instruction booklet. You can make any one of a dozen or so different styles by adding different fabrics and sewing variations. I decided to make a pillow version with some patriotic inspired fabrics. The original Dresden Plate design is for a table top decoration, but I decided I would get more use out of a pillow than a table topper. I also decided that larger was better in this case, I used the full size of the template for this project.

Dresden Plate Pillow Supplies:

•3 coordinating cotton fabrics of patriotic design, about 1/2 yard of each red and white strip, blue chambray and navy blue with stars

•Matching Thread, heavy duty

•Poly-fiberfill stuffing, or an old bed pillow

•Quilting Ruler, Cutting Mat and rotary cutter

•Sewing machine


•Spray Starch

•Iron on patch in a dark color

•Sewing needle and thread

•Fabric pen or marker

How to Make a Dresden Plate Pillow|Designers Sweet Spot|www.designerssweetspot.com

The red and white Yoyo in the center of this pillow gives it a fun dash of Patriotic color. I can see myself taking the pillow along with my favorite blanket to those summer concerts in the park or to see the fireworks!

Here’s the entire process in a quick video!


  1. Iron each fabric to remove wrinkles, matching selvedges and raw edges. Spray with spray starch as you iron to keep the fabric crisp. The starch helps keep the bias cuts from stretching while you are cutting and sewing.
  2. Place the fabric fold edge close to you on a large cutting mat. Measure a 12″ inch strip and cut with a quilting ruler and rotary cutter. Cut 2 strips from each of two fabrics for the pillow top.
  3. Line up the fabric strips on the horizontal. Place the template on the strip, mark the fabric with a fabric pen and cut out with the rotary cutter. This goes faster if you layer your fabric strips. Cut a total of 6 chambray blue and 6 navy blue pieces. For dark printed fabrics it’s easier to mark and cut on the wrong side so you can see your cutting lines.
  4. Cut a 7″ circle in contrasting red and white stripe fabric. (I used a plate to draw my circle).
  5. Lay out the Dresden Plate pieces on the table to view the finished look before sewing.
  6. Sew the pieces together with a stitch length of 2.5 on your sewing machine.
  7. Press seams. Cut a 3″ circle of the iron on patch material and fuse it to the center of the design with the iron. The patch should cover the hole completely. You can also cut a fabric piece for this, but I decided that using a fusible patch was easiest.
  8. Hand stitch a 1/4″ turned seam on the edge of the red and white fabric circle. Using the thread tails, pull up the threads to gather the edges and create the Yoyo circle. Tie off threads and clip ends. Slip stitch in place over the iron on patch.
  9. Place pillow top right side up on red and white contrasting fabric, cut around all edges to make the back of the pillow.
  10. Pin pillow front and back together with WRONG sides together. Stitch around outside edge with a blanket stitch or zigzag stitch. (I like the home spun look this gives the pillow.) Leave a 6-8″ opening to insert the stuffing.
  11. Stuff the pillow with poly fiberfill stuffing. If you are using an old bed pillow, cut away the pillow casing. Pull apart used fiberfill and fluff. Then insert the used fiberfill into the new pillow. Be sure to stuff all the “petal edges” around the pillow.
  12. Slip the opening back under the sewing machine foot and sew closed with the same stitch as before.

How to Make a Dresden Plate Pillow|Designers Sweet Spot|www.designerssweetspot.com

The back of the pillow is also red and white stripe. I forgot to take photos of that. Oh, well. More tomorrow! Thanks to Nancy’s Notions for sponsoring this post!

If you enjoyed this sewing project you might also enjoy these posts:

Kids Travel Pillow

Wool Wave Pillow

How to Sew A Coffee Bean Bag Pillow

Make an Ugly Old Tote Bag Look Like New, No Sew!

Tea Towels with Appliqué

How to Hem Jeans

I have a new tutorial for How to Hem Jeans, it’s been one of my most popular sewing posts to date. It’s been featured on several different websites and blogs. Who knew jeans would be such a popular topic?

How to Hem Jeans - FB

I have been blogging for 6 years now. Hard to believe it’s been that long! I have hundreds of posts on this website. I am in the process of refining my brand and developing my future goals. One of the things I am working on is adding video tutorials to some of my old posts.


I think everyone I know wears jeans, probably all of us have had a pair or two that needed… Click To Tweet

You will need your jeans, tailors chalk (or a sharp #2 lead pencil), and a measuring tape or a ruler.

First try on the jeans (after they have been washed and dried), and roll up the hem to the desired length. I know you know how to do this!

Then, take off the jeans, and measure the amount you rolled up. It was 2 1/2″ on these jeans.

Turn the jeans inside out, matching the leg seams and smoothing out the fabric. Because denim is so heavy, you will need to work with one leg at a time. Calculate the amount of fabric to cut off by subtracting 1″ from your orgininal measurement, to compensate for the seam allowance needed for the hem.

I needed to shorten our jeans 2 1/2″, so 2 1/2″-1″= 1 1/2″ for my total.

Measure from the bottom of the pant leg and mark the distance with a piece of tailors chalk or lead pencil. My distance was 4″. Be sure your cutting line is parallel to the bottom of the pant leg.

Keeping the pant leg inside out, put the leg over the arm of the machine, turning back a 1/2″ seam allowance. Conveniently the presser foot is the same width. If you use it as a guide, you will not have to measure and it will save you time. Also, forget the pins. Pins ruin sewing machines, and you will be a much better sewer without them. They do not use pins in professional production because they would completely slow down the process. It’s the difference between sewing like a pro, and sewing like a homemaker. No pins.

Lower the presser foot and begin sewing, but do not start on the thick part of the side seam. Begin either slightly before or after the seam. Most machines will just sew right through the thick seam without a problem if they have a running start. Center your needle in the seam allowance, and continue sewing around the entire pant leg. When you get to the end, over lap the stitching slightly to lock it in place. Trim your threads, and remove the pant leg from the machine.

Here are my best tips and tricks for sewing with denim:

  1. Use a heavy duty needle for denim fabrics. I have broken more sewing machine needles  than I can count by sewing jeans. Denim is by far the heaviest material I ever work with. Recently I noticed you can buy packages of needles just for denim, what a great idea! Pick up a package or two to have on hand when ever you need them.
  2. Always use a new needle for each pair of jeans. Needles get dull very quickly on fabrics like this. It will save you lots of headaches if you use a new, sharp needle each time you sew with denim. It may seem like overkill, but you just have to trust me on this one.
  3. Purchase 100% cotton thread for working on jeans. Thread that is designed for machine quilting works well, it’s strong enough to hold up during sewing on denim. I use black or navy for hemming, you don’t have to match the gold top stitching that most jeans have, in fact I think it looks better if you don’t.
  4. Don’t bother with pressing your jeans. Denim is heavy and hard to work with. After you have hemmed your jeans, wash and dry them as usual. They will look and feel great. The new stitches will blend in with the fabric like they were always there. Besides, pressed jeans are just weird.
  5. Help your friends learn to hem their own jeans, I am sure they will be grateful for your help!

That being said, it’s time for the tutorial! I had fun putting this video together, hope it helps you hem your jeans!



How to Hem Jeans

How to Sew Knits

This easy to make dress is a great way to learn to sew with knit fabrics. 

How to Sew Knits|Designers Sweet Spot|www.designerssweetspot.com

How to Sew Knits, Tips and Tricks for success

31 Days of Sewing: Day 12

At long last, this knit dress is complete. I have had many obstacles recently, too many to list. It disappoints me that my progress on this 31 Day challenge is a fraction of what it should be.

I will continue nevertheless, but it may be fall by the time I have completed it.

Better late than never as they say.

This dress is Vogue pattern #V8972. I have decided I have a love/hate relationship with it.

I love the style of it.

The color fabric is great.


How to Sew Knits|Designers Sweet Spot|www.designerssweetspot.com

Pattern Notes

The dress was easy to fit with the custom fit pattern options (Using your bra cup size).

I hate that the pattern says you can use woven fabrics or knits for this dress. I can’t imagine sewing this pattern with any woven fabric, it wouldn’t work well.

(I chose a Ponte Knit.)

The pattern directions are geared for sewing only a woven dress, not a knit one. (They don’t tell you this.)

So, I realized this too late, after I couldn’t change my mind on how to construct it. (I am slow sometimes.) I am not happy.

Sewing knits isn’t difficult, but it is considerably different than sewing a woven item. I dislike that they don’t include knit sewing directions with this pattern.

How to Sew Knits|Designers Sweet Spot|www.designerssweetspot.com

Here are my tips for sewing knits:

•Use a stretch stitch for sewing the seams. Most machines have one, consult your users manual if you aren’t sure which one it is.

•Don’t bother topstitching the seams. Single needle top stitching doesn’t stretch. It makes no sense to topstitch a stretchy seam with a non-stretchy one. (I realized this too late, my seams were stretched more than they should have been by the topstitching.)

•ou really don’t have to stay stitch anything. The fabric will stretch with or without the stay stitching, it doesn’t really help.

•Eliminate lining the garment. This dress was supposed to be lined, traditional lining doesn’t stretch and therefore doesn’t work well with the knit. Also my Ponte knit was very heavy and I just didn’t think it was necessary.

•Eliminate the back zipper. Stretch knits are easy to pull on without a zipper, plus single needle topstitching the zipper on a knit just doesn’t work that well. It will save you time, headaches and money to not have to install the zipper.

How to Sew Knits|Designers Sweet Spot|www.designerssweetspot.com

•I changed the construction a bit because I didn’t use a lining. I contemplated cutting a neck facing to finish the neckline (which would give this dress a more tailored look, but decided against it. Have I mentioned I dislike facings?

Instead, I decided to take advantage of a Cover Stitch option that I have on my Singer Sewing machine for finishing the seam edges.

•Here’s how it works: I turned down the marked seam allowance at the neck, sleeve hem and dress hem.

•Then I basted them in place with a 3.0 stitch length.

Using a Cover Stitch

From the right side, I went over the first line of stitching with the Cover Stitch. You can do it from the wrong side as well if you choose. The idea is that the cover stitch completely covers the raw edge of the fabric, along with the basting and creates a sporty look on the right side. It is a very durable stitch and stretches nicely with the knit.

How to Sew Knits|Designers Sweet Spot|www.designerssweetspot.com

This technique is usually found on t-shirts and active sportswear. I thought it would be a nice casual touch for this dress.

You can see the topstitching on the bodice seam is a bit stretched out of shape at the shoulder, I don’t care for it and wouldn’t do that again if I remake this dress. Topstitching works great on wovens, just not so well on knits.

Perhaps I am too picky. I can’t help it.

How to Sew Knits|Designers Sweet Spot|www.designerssweetspot.com

I used the same cover stitching on the hem of the dress. Not sure that I love it as much here, the machine didn’t fare well running over those thick side seams.  Alternatively,  I would hand stitch the dress hem in place if you don’t have a cover stitch option.

How to Sew Knits|Designers Sweet Spot|www.designerssweetspot.com

The scarf was one I found at a thrift store. Overall, I think I am going to love this dress with a pair of boots for just about any occasion.

Time to move on to the next project!

Here are more top posts:

7 Easy Beginner Sewing Projects

Sewing a Fleece Robe

Simple Pillow Tutorial

Why You Need to Learn to Sew

How to Hem Jeans